Welcome to the plumbing phase of your pool build. This phase is all about circulation and your pool equipment. This is one of the most involved phases of the construction process, so this video is gonna be a little bit longer. Let's dive in. Before the plumber arrives, confirm your equipment delivery. It is best to have all your pool equipment available and on-site for the plumber to hook up everything immediately. If you don't, you can do a stub out for future hookup of your pool equipment, but we think it's best have the plumber do it while they're already on-site on that first day. If you're using a propane tank for your heater, make sure to check the size and the regulator to ensure that it matches the heater's requirements. If you're not gonna be using a salt system, then make sure during this phase to install the inline pool chlorinator. If you have high water tables, your plumber may install a hydro relief valve during this phase. If you're adding fountain pumps, you'll need separate suction lines. So use either a channel drain or two separate main drains as required by code. Next is circulation and returns. You should always have ten inches of straight pipe prior to the pump. This ensures that all the water is going to run smoothly. When plumbing lines enter the pool, they should be level so that plaster fittings finish flush. Fittings finish flush. Say that three times fast. When it comes to the jets in your spa, you're gonna probably wanna vary the different heights depending on if you wanna jet low back or mid back. Everybody likes jets in different spots. So confirm with your plumber where exactly you wanna place those jets for the most comfortable position for you and your family and friends. Electrical conduits can be installed by your plumber or electrician. Check to make sure who is responsible for installing conduits. You'll need that conduit from your main panel to your equipment and from your pool lights back to the equipment as well. Bonding and grounding, this is another one that can be tackled by either your plumber or electrician. So make sure to check with them both and see who's going to be responsible. This includes bonding clamps and copper whips or an equipotential grid that is tied into the steel cage. It's a hard word, but say it with me, equipotential grid. You got it. Every single metal component in your pool project needs to be bonded from handrails to slides to equipment. So whoever is taking care of the bonding, whether it's your plumber or your electrician, make sure that they are bonding every metal component. When fixtures and finishing are done, make sure to paint any exposed pipes to protect from UV damage. And this one should be obvious, but sure your pool equipment is bolted down to its pad. As always, you're gonna wanna keep a clean job site, so make sure that you're cleaning up, your crew's cleaning up, and that the job site is clean for the next subcontractor who's going to be coming in. Once your steel, plumbing, and electrical are all complete, then you're gonna be ready for a pre gunite inspection. Don't forget to download your checklist after this video, but first, let's join Mike in the field and see what plumbing looks like in action. Okay. If your project has a spa, you're obviously gonna have jets. This is the way the jets look when they're first plumbed in or what they call stub plumbed. You have jet body back here that has two lines. The upper line is the air line. The lower line is the water line. And what happens is the water that's returning from your your pump for the spa is gonna pump the water through here, out through the jet. As it's doing that, it's gonna pull air out of your airline. Those two get mixed up, that's what gets you your strong jet action and bubbles that you're used to seeing in a spa. This airline needs to have a loop in it to keep it clear of water. So you'll notice somewhere in your spa that the airline is gonna be up higher than the waterline inside of the spa and up higher than the rest of the airline that surrounds the spa. You'll notice it's sticking up a little higher. Sometimes that'll be in the dam wall. This particular case being that this is a raised bond beam wall, it's a perfect place to have that air gap like that. And what's gonna happen is this airline is gonna go back to the pool equipment. We'll show you that in the in the next video that goes over the pool equipment. The airline is gonna stick up higher than the pool equipment and it'll either have a slit in it or holes drilled. Some people can put an air blower on those and then really have some crazy jet action. On your project, you're gonna have lights in the pool and or spa. This one happens to be in the spa, but in your pool it would be the exact same. You're gonna have an inch and a half piece of PVC pipe that sticks out. It doesn't have a cap on it like the pressurized lines do because the light line with the conduit does not need to be pressurized, so they just put tape on the end. It's kinda industry standard. They they use red tape, but it doesn't matter. If your particular pool, they use a different color tape, it really doesn't matter. But it's just letting the gunite crew know that it's not a pressurized line, that this is gonna be just for the light. Once the gunite's done and the plaster guys come out, they'll cut it flush, they'll pull the light in, the light is gonna go from this PVC pipe into a piece of conduit and go back over to your pool equipment. We'll go over that in more detail when we shoot the pool equipment area, talk to you a little bit more about what a j box is and how it operates. But for now, just to give you an idea what the lights will look like inside your pool or spa, this is exactly what you should expect to see. This is the main drain that's in the bottom of your pool. This particular one happens to be what they call a channel drain. It's much longer and wider than the standard, twelve inch drain caps that are round that you're used to seeing. Virginia Graham Baker Act requires either a channel drain like this or two separate drains that are separated by three feet. It's your choice which one you go with. The two pipes with the two separate caps that are separated by the three feet might be a little cheaper than a channel drain. It just depends on which one your plumber likes to use and which one you'd rather be looking at. But this is what the main drain looks like if it's a channel drain, and it's gonna go from here up over into the skimmer, and from the skimmer back over to the pool equipment, and we'll show you that shot of how it looks at the pool equipment a little bit later. Okay. This is your skimmer loop. This is a question a lot of people have. They'll see this and they'll say, is that gonna be out there forever? No, it's not. This is just a loop that they do at the skimmer so that that way they can pressurize the system and make sure there's no leaks. There's a little pressure gauge here that's filled up with air and water, and that way we're assured that there's no leaks anywhere. What's gonna happen is when you get to the plaster phase, these pipes will be cut, they'll be unscrewed out, and you're gonna have a level top skimmer down there. So this is just called your skimmer loop, it's only here to keep things pressurized and make sure that you don't have any leaks. Okay. When it comes time to do the plumbing on your pool, some plumbers will do what they call a stub plumb, and that's where they just do the very basics prior to gunite or shotcrete. Once the pool's been shotcreated, then they're gonna come back and continue the plumbing everywhere else and hook everything up. So I wanted to show this to you so you had a good idea what a stub plum looks like. This line, for example, happens to be the pool sweep line. It has a cap on that side, but you can see it's clearly just cut off on this side. That's gonna get hooked up and go back over to the pool equipment once the pool's been gunighted. There's the light pipe there for the light, but this is typical of a stub plumb job where they just put the lines in enough to get it to gunite, and then after it's been gunited or shot created, they'll come back and do the rest of the plumbing all the way around, and we'll show you a picture of how that looks a little bit later. If your pool has bubblers, this is what a bubbler would look like prior to the gunite stage, the shotcrete stage. It has a light conduit on one side and the water on the other side. The water is gonna come here off the pump, come into here and shoot up, and then the light gets installed in here, and the light conduit down goes down below and back. Both these will go back over to the pool equipment location. We'll show you what that looks like when we show you the pool equipment, but I just wanted to let you know if you do have bubblers, this is kind of what you should expect prior to being shot with either the shotcrete or the gunite. Okay. Here we have fountain scuppers. Scuppers are just another type of fountain. These happen to be made out of brass, copper, and, they are gonna patina through the years and kinda almost have a green tinge to them, but you can also get them in stainless steel and every different materials. But what'll happen is they will up with water and then sheet down into the pool. You'll see they stick out here. It's about two inches up on the top, very close to being even with the tile line. That's kind of the standard look for these, but of course you can set them exactly how you'd like for your particular pool. Alright. Here we are on the backside of those same scuppers, and I wanted to show you how they plumb those in. This has got what we call a loop system, as you can see going around here, feeding each of those three cascades. And the reason they do this loop system is to even out the pressure so that you get pretty close to the same pressure on every single one of the cascades. The other way to do it would be to have your waterline come up to a valve and then have a separate valve for each fountain feature, which you can do, and then you would regulate each one independently. The loop system seems to work pretty good, that's what most people do. But if you're really concerned about having the exact same amount coming out of each one of them, you may want to put a separate valve on every single one of those scuppers that gets supplied by the supply line, and that way you can regulate each one individually. This particular project has two columns that are gonna have water bowls sitting on top of them. So what you see here is it framed out. They're gonna shoot this solid with the shotcrete. Once the shotcrete's done, these forms come off and you have a perfectly squared column for that water bowl to sit on. This particular water bowl has three different lines because you have a water supply line that's gonna fill that bowl out so it can sheet down into the pool. It also has a drain line so that once it shuts off, the water doesn't just sit in the bowl. It actually will drain out. And it also has an electrical conduit line because this particular bowl is gonna have a light inside of it. So you'll see as you look down, there's actually three pipes. You have a water pipe, you have an electrical pipe for the light, and a drain pipe to drain the water out of the bowl when it's not running. Alright. The stub plumbing for the, pool and spa are here. I don't know if you can be able to see this or not, but in this case, they did label each one of these. I don't know what they're for. This one says bubbler, this one says deck jet, and so on. So that way, whoever's doing the stub plumbing does not end up being the one that plumbs everything into the pool equipment, whoever comes in next will easily be able to tell, what each pipe is for. Good idea to take a picture of that and keep that on record so that you yourself know what each pipe is going towards. Again, you wanna have this under pressure. Having it under pressure assures that there's no leaks. Again, any fluctuation, some little bits you're gonna notice with temperature, but if you notice it consistently going down, that means you got a leak and it has to get fixed. One other thing I wanted to bring up about, pressurizing the system to make sure there's no leaks, depending on where you live, they may use water to fill these pipes up and to create the pressure. And in other areas, they're gonna use air to fill it up and to create the pressure to make sure there's no leaks. Kind of the rule of thumb is if you're in an area that freezes, you're gonna be using air, instead of water because, of course the water could freeze and that might dust the pipe. So if you're in an area that doesn't get any frost or freezing, chances are they'll fill these up with water. If you're in an area that does get freeze, they'll probably be filling it up with air. Alright. Here we are back behind the spa wall. You see all these plumbing lines that all come up and together they're all glued with a gauge on them so that that way you can pressurize it and make sure there's absolutely no leaks in any of the plumbing for the spa. This is again what they call stub plumbing, and this would be the stub plumbing for the spa. On this particular job, the equipment's gonna be right back here, right behind the spa wall, and then they'll cut the plumbing pipes. They'll put this bonding wire to all the pieces of equipment to make sure everything's properly grounded. Now in this case, with the equipment going back here, it's it's pretty simple, but your equipment may be fifty feet away. They would just continue the pipes on out to where your equipment location should be, and then, of course, run the bond wire out there as well. And your equipment doesn't have to be this close to the spots just on this particular project, that's the way they wanted it. Continuing talking about stub plumbing. Obviously, equipment isn't here, they had to stub plumb all of the plumbing and all the electrical conduit lines. The gray conduit is for electrical, and the white is for the pool plumbing. Some jurisdictions do require that the electrical pipes or the conduit be under pressure to assure that there's no leaks because the the conduit does have water in it when it's coming from the lights. So some jurisdictions require the pressure gauge to be on there. Most places, they'll want it around thirty pounds pressure. Make sure it holds that thirty pounds pressure and there's no leaks. You can see the gauge going down. Obviously, you have a leak somewhere and you need to get to that. But, in this case, I just wanted to show what it looks like. They put this common manifold on here and a pressure gauge. Make sure that gauge stays pretty consistent. You're gonna see a little fluctuation with temperature, but it should stay pretty consistent. If it's consistently going down, you know you've got a leak. And that's true with weather, whether they're pressurizing the conduit or the pool plumbing. Alright. Trenching for your gas and electric conduit lines. You need to make sure that the trench is wide enough, unless you do two trenches, that there's a twelve inch separation between the gray conduit feed line that's gonna go from the meter out to the pool equipment and, the poly pipe gas line. The poly pipe gas line is gonna have a tracer wire following it, so that they can always trace it in the future if they need to know where the gas line is. And then, as you can see in this trench, there happens to be a blue flex pipe. That's for the water line, the water supply line that's gonna be going to the pool equipment area that's gonna have an anti siphon valve on it that's gonna feed the autofill. Continuing about the conduit and gas lines, the in this particular job, they happen to be stubbed up here along the side of the house because they're actually gonna go underneath the foundation of the house. There has to be a crawl space here at this house, so they're gonna run it underneath there and connect to the meters that are on the side yard. We'll show you those connections once they're done. Alright. If your gas line's gonna be underneath concrete, it's good to put it in a sleeve like this so that that way it has venting properties which it's gonna need to meet the code. If your gas line's going underneath the patio cover, for example, or a future, room that you're gonna be building out by your pool, maybe you're gonna have a pool house or something like that, any gas line in those areas needs to be vented. Alright. Here you see the gas line being stubbed up through the side of the house because they were going under the foundation. It has the pressure gauge on there which needs to be on there to make sure that the gas line is holding pressure. You don't want to see any dropping of pressure in your gas line or obviously there's a leak in there. So once it's inspected, the gauge will come off. It'll get connected to the gas meter here at the side of the house. Now in this particular case, the gas meter is a little small for the four hundred thousand btu heater they're gonna be using, so they're gonna be upgrading that. That's something that's usually done through your local gas company, and they usually do that for free. You just need to call them in advance and let them know the size of the heater you're gonna be using, and they'll come out and put in the appropriate size meter. We're talking about the gas meter here. This gas meter has already been updated from the original gas meter that was in here. It's as you can tell by the picture that we have attached to the video here, that it's about three times as big as the old unit that was in here. They replaced the meter and the piping from the meter over to here. They added in the valve that separates the, gas that goes to the house, which is this line here, to the line that goes to the pool, which is this line here. They separated them by having a valve. So if you wanted to turn off the gas to the pool, you can do that here. In line is on, which is like this, and off would be if it's coming up. But it's supplying gas to the heater in the backyard right now this way with the valve in line with the pipes. Now in this particular job, there was a crawl space so the plumbing comes back and goes into it looks like the house, but it actually is going to a crawl space, goes down and out to the pool project. If you don't have a crawl space, then what would happen is this line would go down, continue straight into the ground. It'll switch to poly pipe once it hits the ground that'll require a tracer wire, and then it'll be poly pipe all the way down to the pool heater itself. That tracer wire, just to give you an example, looks just like this right here. It's usually a yellow number eight, wire that they use. Check with your billing department. They all are a little bit different, but most do those bonding wires the same as they do the tracer wire. And this all was done and serviced by the local gas company for free. They usually do not charge for this service. They are usually pretty backed up though, so you wanna give them a good thirty day notice so they can come out ahead time, so you're not waiting for the gas company to come out and get your equipment up and running. But they'll do it as a free service, they'll upgrade the meter, put in the valves, upgrade the plumbing as required so that your project works properly. While you're pressurizing your system, while you're pressurizing all the pool plumbing, we talked about caps being on all the return lines and suction lines. If you have fountains, they're gonna come with little caps like you see here, they're little plugs that screw in. It helps keep the pressure for the whole system to make sure you have no leaks. So depending on the kind of fountain you have, you may have a screw in cap like this. You may have a rubber cap that goes in there, a rubber plug that gets screwed in and pressurized. So depending on what system you're going with, with what feature you're using, they're gonna come with different types of plugs so you can pressurize your system. Okay. After the pressure's been checked one more time right before plaster and we know all the plumbing lines are good, it's time to cut off all those fittings or what we call stubs, that are sticking out for the return lines, for the, airlines, for your pool lights, spa lights, and jet fittings. Speaking of jet fittings, wanted to show you this is what an actual jet fitting looks like. When it's sitting in your spa, you're gonna have the waterline and the air line that mixes inside where the nozzle goes to get your strong jet action. And what happens is, depending on how far back in the gunite shell or shotcrete shell this jet fitting is, is gonna depend on how long they make this stub that goes inside. It's actually gonna come in here and screw inside, and each one's gonna be a little different depending on how far back into the gunite shell that the jet fitting is. So if you look at these two, you'll see they're a lot different in length. This one obviously has the jet fitting further back into the spa, so it needs to be a longer one. And if the jet fitting happens to be a little closer, then of course it'd be the shorter one. And what they've done here is they've actually numbered each one of the jets with a coinciding number on each of the pipes so that we know exactly, oh, number seven goes into number seven, number nine goes into number nine, and so on and so forth. So that way, they know the length is proper for that exact location. I also wanted to show you on the jet fittings themselves. There's all different variations of jet fittings. This one happens to twirl around. This one has multiple sizes that pulsates. You can also have a jet fitting that's just a standard water flow that can be adjusted on or off depending on how you turn it, and also adjust the intensity of it. So that'll be up to you to decide what types of jets you want in your spa. You may want a variety. You may want them all the same, but that's something for you to think about and to purchase the correct ones that you have for your particular job so that when your plumber's out or plaster, whoever is plumbing the job, getting it ready for plaster, they have the right fittings so they know exactly how far to go back in and make each individual piece. Okay. The equipment's all been set. We'll go over the plumbing of each of the equipment items and show you how each one was plumbed and what each unit does, as well as they've got most of the backfill done, covering up all the trenches for the gas and electric runs and all the plumbing runs. Here we have the main pool pump for the pool and spa. Some cases, may just be a pool only or a spa only, but this would be the main pump. This one with a pool and spa, we have the inlets, one from the spa, one from the pool that come up, join into the pump here. From here, it goes up into the filter, from the filter over to the heater, and then back to the pool. Okay. Here we have the filter. In this case, it's a cartridge filter which probably ninety five percent of our clients like. One, they're very easy to clean and two, it traps a very small micron. So they're very very popular. They are easy to clean. It has a simple clamp down here. You take the bolt out, it undoes. This comes off. You're able to get to the filters and clean them. So you do wanna make sure you have some access areas. You can see they do here to get to the filter because you will be doing that for maintenance. All pools, spas, spools, any of your water projects, they're all gonna include a filter. It just depends on the size filter for your size project. This is the gas heater. It can be gas natural or propane. It comes the exact same in the box. The only difference if you're using propane, you're gonna install a small orifice or your plumber probably will that limits the amount of gas that goes in. That's the only difference. Typically with these heaters, this being the front would be towards the front when you're facing your equipment. In this particular configuration, it worked out better for the flow to have it sitting sideways, if you will, so that the access lid is actually on the side. But that doesn't matter. You can plumb it however it fits best on your equipment set. This is a vent that vents out the hot air from the heater, and that needs to be four feet from any opening window. Should there be any opening windows within four feet, this is gonna need to be adjusted so that it's clear of that four foot area. Also, with the gas heater, you're gonna heat up much quicker. Your pool or spa, they are very good at heating up quickly. Not quite as efficient as a heat pump, but a heat pump doesn't heat up very quickly to where the gas heaters do. If you have a spa with your project, more than likely you're gonna want a heater on there that's gonna heat it up quickly, and the gas heater is your best option. Here we have a booster pump for the spa. If your spa has more than six jets, you'll probably want to have a booster pump that can power those additional jets. Depending on how many extra jets you want would determine the size of the pump. You can always go a little bit bigger and scale it down as they are variable speeds. In this case, this particular spa has an additional six jets, so that comes in here through the sweep ninety, comes out, and then they can control whether it's the calf jets or the upper back jets in this particular plumbing job with these valves. But this would be just for those extra jets in your spa. Your standard pump is gonna be doing up to six jets. If you want more than six jets, then you get the booster pump. Here we have the fountain pump that is gonna be for the deck jets and the bubblers. This is run off of the pool. There'll be a suction line inside the pool. It comes up through the sweep ninety. We like to see sweep nineties used as much as possible at your equipment set. It helps the flow of the water much better, and especially as it's heading into a pump, the flow rating into the pump's higher, and that way you have less what they call head loss, which basically means that the pump's gonna run quieter and more efficient. Now, here on this particular pump, we have an inlet that's controlled with valves so you can control how much water is coming in if you wanted. It goes into the pump, out through another valve, and then circles around, and then each of these has its own independent valve so that you can adjust these two are bubblers, so you can adjust the amount of pressure that's going to the bubblers, how high the bubblers are going. You can adjust those here. Most people are gonna find a position they like and leave it there, but you can always adjust it. And then it comes this way and loops around and goes over to the deck jets. This one has three deck jets, and so again, you can adjust each deck jet exactly how you want it. So the deck jet that's a little further away may need a little bit more power than the one that's closer. So you can do those adjustments to get them just right, just the way you want it by adjusting these valves. I would also like to say that it's a good job to have the plumbers label these just like these were. It actually says bubblers and deck jets so that that way when you go to do the startup, your startup technician is gonna be able to know exactly what each component is, what it powers, where all the plumbing's going. It'll just make it much much easier for your startup tech. You'll notice here we have some different size plumbing. You have the bubblers here and the deck jets there. The bubblers have a little bit bigger PVC plumbing pipe than the deck jets do. The deck jets don't take as much pressure as the bubblers do, so you're gonna see some different sized plumbing throughout your pool that's normal depending on what is being powered and how much water it needs. Alright. Here we have another separate fountain pump. Again, have the sweep ninety coming up into the pump itself, and then coming out, you can kind of follow it around here. We have another valve that controls how much water is going to be going to the scuppers. Scuppers are a type of fountain, and then, another way the valve can turn is over here, and that's going to go to the water bowls. So, again, you'll see some different size plumbing depending on the fixture and the type of plumbing and size of the plumbing that that particular fixture needs, and each one has its own independent valve, again, so that you can adjust the flow. In this case, on this side, you'd be adjust the flow that's going to the water bowls, how far out that flow goes from the water bowls down in the pool. And on this side, you'd be controlling the flow for the scuppers, which are a type of fountain and lets the water either sheet way out or keep it up real tight to the edge. But this is an entirely separate system. Should you have different fountains, it'll look very similar to this to power those separate fountains with this fountain pump. As it heads out back to the pool or pool and spa, it's gonna come out here. Here we have it going back to the pool on one side and back to the spa on the other. This valve is gonna control whether it's going to the pool or the spa or the pool and spa together. You want that valve on there so when you go to heat your spa, you're returning the water just to the spa and not to the pool that we are heating up, the spa water. Here we have the check valve. The check valve is gonna be installed in your main pool pool spa equipment set. You don't need to have the extra booster pumps to have a check valve. They should all have a check valve on the return side so that that way once the equipment shut off, you don't have any water backing up. It's especially important when you have a salt system. There sometimes can be a concentration of chlorine that the salt cell actually generates, and you don't want that extra concentration of chlorine to back up into the filter or the pump or the heater. So you wanna make sure you have a check valve installed so that it prevents that from happening. Now the check valve does need access to be able to get to it. It has about, eight screws on it and that will need to come off, the, little flapper that's inside the check valve needs to be replaced about every three years. Alright. Here we have the standard valves. The standard valves are what we call manual valves that can control whether the water is coming from the spa, the pool, the pool and spa is all done through the manual valve that you actually have to turn yourself. If you upgrade to the remote control system, it will come with an actuator. And what an actuator is is a motorized valve. This comes apart and this will go on top of it, and then with your remote control, you simply hit spa or pool and this will automatically rotate to either the pool or the spa, whichever you commanded it to do through your smartphone and it'll do it automatically so you don't have to come out here and do it manually. Sometimes they're installed by the plumbers, but most of the time the electricians will actually install these actuators and they'll hook them up to the remote control panel. Okay. Here we have the brass backflow preventer that's for your autofill. Check with your local jurisdiction because each jurisdiction is a little different as far as what they require. Some of them will even have you get it pressure checked from a company that comes out and actually is registered with the state to do backflow prevention checking. And so check with your jurisdiction. There's no reason to call somebody out if you don't need to, but they may require that. This particular backflow preventer is a very expensive unit. It's about a hundred and fifty dollars for this particular unit. Again, this happens to be what they require at this local, area. Yours, you may get by with just a standard, backflow preventer that's under fifty bucks. So make sure you check with your local billing department and get the right one for your particular project. Alright. Here we have the heat pump. It's an electric heat pump chiller. It comes in various sizes. This is gonna heat up the water and cool the water because it is a heat chiller pump. It runs off electric. It requires its own separate fifty amp panel. And as far as plumbing one of these in, obviously, you'll have the electrical that goes to it on its own fifty amp panel as I mentioned. But then you will also have an inlet and an outlet that feed water through here. That'll be coming from your pool pump and going back to either the pool or the spa depending on which way you turn the valve to heat up either the pool or the spa. But this unit will just go in off of the main pump for the pool and spa. Okay. Now, the heat pump obviously is an optional item. You don't have to have a heat pump. If you do have a spa, you'll need to either have a gas heater, which would be gas either natural or propane, or an electric heat pump. The upside to a heat pump is they're very efficient. If you have solar heating, you get to run it for almost nothing. The downside to a heat pump is that, it takes much longer to heat up your pool or spa. To where a gas heater heats up relatively quickly, within say thirty minutes, the heat pump's gonna take say an hour and a half, two to heat up spa, a standard sized spa at least. Here we have the UVO system. This is one of the units you can go with that helps cut down the amount of chlorine and chemicals into your pool or spa. They work really good at cutting down certain bacterias. If you have one of these, you're gonna use a lot less chlorine, about seventy five percent less chlorine than if you didn't have one. And if you have a salt system and a u v o together, you're basically putting bottled water out into your pool which is really nice. Now this does have a front facing with the lid here which typically would be facing out. Again, with this equipment set, it made more sense the way the plumbing flow was to plumb it sideways, and because there's plenty of room to get back here and turn things on and off manually, they went ahead and plumbed it in this way. But if you have a UVO system on your pool, it'll look very similar to this. It'll have an inlet and an outlet, and that's gonna be hooked up to your main pool pump. You'll notice there's a piece of plumbing missing here. That's because I wanted to show you. This is part of the equipotential grounding that you do. It has a grounding rod inside of here, and I wanted to be able to show you that so I have them purposely not glue it in just yet. That's gonna you can either put that somewhere where there's gonna be water constantly sitting, which because we talked about the check valve, this part of the plumbing will always have water in it, so it needs to be in water. In some cases, they will put these down here below, so that that way they make sure there's always water sitting in there and that the copper is actually hitting the water all the time. You're gonna be seeing in the next video where we actually attach the copper bonding wire to the lug right here. So your plumber may put it down here below or they can put it up here. If they do, it does need to be sideways like this so that it's in the water. You don't want it plumbed straight up because then the water level is gonna be down below the actual probe itself. So just make sure they have it in sideways like that. Okay. Pro tip. While your plumber's out plumbing your pool, have them put in a hose bib over at the pool equipment area. That way, you don't have to drag your hose around when you wanna do things like clean your filters or reprime your pumps or anything like that, you have the hose bib right here at the pool equipment. It's a great idea, and I think it's worth the money to have it done. Make sure you ask your plumber about it. Okay. Pro tip. On these tanning ledges, reef seat, baja shelf, shamu shelf, it goes by a lot of different names, they're typically if you look here, there's a water line's gonna be here. So you're looking at about six or eight inches of water, which is typical for these shelves or ledges to be. So that that way when you're sitting on it or have a lounge chair in it, you're in a little bit of water, but you're not underwater. We like to see a return line put in somewhere in this reef seat ledge area to help keep this area cleared out as much as possible so that every day when the pump kicks on, it's gonna be circulating water off over this ledge and trying to keep it as clean as possible naturally as that pump kicks on every day.